People have been asking about this already, and, as promised, here it is: the Lisbon Cake Post.
Before I launch into it, I’ll let you in on a dark and dirty secret: The famous Portuguese custard tarts (pastéis de nata) – I’ve never been a fan. Shocking, I know!
I tried them a few times while I lived in London, and found them a bit insipid – quite cartony on the outside, and the flavour of the filling was just too eggy for me.
But now I’m a convert. The authentic article, fresh from the oven, is nothing short of orgasmic.
For my first taste of the real McCoy, I stepped inside the premises of the legendary Pastéis de Belém in the west of Lisbon:
The queue might look formidable, but that’s for the take-away counter. The bakery’s café is surprisingly spacious, harbouring a warren of dining rooms, and finding a table did not prove to be a problem.
There’s even an observation window!
It’s not all about custard tarts, of course. This is the traditional Portuguese Christmas cake:

I don’t remember its name, and it doesn’t look like much, but it’s delicious. It’s the lightest, airiest sponge cake imaginable, with a very moist, almost runny centre. I’ve no idea how this is even achieved, but it totally works.
As you can imagine, I scoffed all sorts of cakeage during my one week in Lisbon, including a gloriously fluffy creation called “bolo de deus” (cake of God), which came in the form of a bun. Now, if I were God and had to entrust my buns to anyone, it would definitely be the Portuguese!
[For Part I of what Lisbon is all about, click here.]
Too bad Star Trek’s transporter isn’t real… I’d be demanding some of those fresh pastéis de nata or bolo de deus right now!! 🙂
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I so want to be back there right now, and for me it’s just a 1-hr flight… but still, I’m far, far away… sigh.
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Wow, I had no idea that Portugal is such a pastry place. I wish I had an epicurean guide for my Europan adventures when I was studying/traveling abroad. That eggy custard sounds especially amazing.
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It is… I wish I’d never tried them, now I’ve got a new addiction!!!!
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I have never seen anything like that “bolo de deus”. Is that a pepper in there? I would try a bite out of that bun. It’s quite colorful.
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That roscón thing is called Bolo Rei. It’s a bit dry for my liking… but edible 😉
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I can see why they call it king cake. It looks like it belongs on a throne. 🙂
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The German version of this is called “Stollen”. The texture is quite similar, but it has a marzipan centre, which makes all the difference, in my opinion.
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I love those custardy thingies. That Christmas cake just looks mad!
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You see, this is why we’ve got to go to Lisbon next year!
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You persuaded me!
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That was easy 😉 You’ll love it.
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That’s the trouble with the Pastéis de Belém – they are addictive and only available in Lisbon! Damn it!
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Love this! Thanks! I love the pastéis de nata! A friend of mine does them and I could “dive into them” 😉 I love Portuguese pastry! (a friend once said that it originated in Grisons, Switzerland, but I have to check if this is really true, haha!)
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Well, the Swiss sure know about good cakes, so I’d give them the benefit of the doubt 😉
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I love those eggs tarts. Lucky for me they are also considered a Hong Kong and Macau specialty because of the historic Portuguese influence in the area. In fact I just ate a delicious one on Boxing Day!
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Ah yes, of course! Macau was once Portuguese… sort of. Glad they came away from this experience with at least ONE good thing 😉
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Cake of God… it would have to be good with a name like that! 🙂
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Well, its inspiring! Its flavor is similar to that of the “Danish pastries”, but the last time I’ve eaten it is a long time ago!
Serenity for 2014 😉 claudine
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That’s too long ago, if you ask me 😉
Thanks, and a Very Happy New Year to you!
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Love those tarts but they have to be fresh. A tongue prod, a bite or two and they’re gone. Can’t get them here – or even a version of them (don’t think)
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Spain is sadly lacking on the cake front. They deny it, but they lack all comparison, of course.
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Day 2 of my second time in Lisbon saw a pilgrimage to Pasteis de Belem. Oh my god how much I love them. No one else comes close to their custard. I swear they are adding a secret ingredient I have not figured out yet. It was off season, so no line and plenty of empty tables inside the cavernous space. It was heaven! So jealous right now. Happy New Year!
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Aw, thanks, same to you 🙂
I’m beginning to think that Lisbon would be a good place for an international bloggers’ “cakeference”.
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A Cakeference…. now that sounds like an idea! Happy New Year!
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Same to you 🙂
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These look utterly scrumptious!
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They so were 🙂
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Oh my goodness. Where have these been all my life?
During Mardi Gras season, New Orleans is also known for their King Cakes. Baked inside the cake is a tiny plastic baby. (Creepy, I know) Whoever gets the slice of cake with the baby in it will have good luck the rest of the year.
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Same here in Spain 🙂 In the UK, the Christmas cake traditionally contains a penny.
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My colleague raves about pastéis de nata, so I tried one at Lisbon airport just for her. I was expecting it to be horrifyingly sweet, but it actually wasn’t!
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Aw, those at the airport… not the best. Did they not have them in Madeira?
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I only saw them about twice in Madeira, and also some bigger ones called something like “tartes de nata” but I didn’t end up eating any there.
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