Maundy Thursday is a very special day in Toledo, I was told. It is the day when the city’s myriad of monasteries and convents, usually closed to outsiders, open their doors to the hoi polloi. Spain’s first Catholic cathedral was built in Toledo, and resting on its momentous religious significance, every conceivable Catholic order has its hive. Nevertheless, the number of devout men and women contained within their thick stone walls has been progressively shrinking, and it seems that, nowadays, almost all the nuns, monks and priests under the age of 70 emanate from Latin America, Africa or the Philippines.
But I digress…
This is my third Easter since moving to Toledo, and I’d missed “The Grand Opening” of these holy dwelling places in the two years previous. So this time round, I was determined not to let it pass me by.
Well, I needn’t have bothered.
I’d not done much research beforehand to see what it was all about. I had naively hoped that I’d be able to indulge in a bit of “snooping”. I mean, I would love to see a working convent or a monastery from the inside, even if it was just for an amble around the inside courtyards (which can be very beautiful), a sneak peek into the reading room, kitchen, dining hall, or anything actually relevant to the everyday life of the inmates.
But no. The deal was that the institutions’ churches opened, allowing you to have a quick shuffle round the pews, gaze at statues of gold-robed saints with their fingers in weird positions and pray that you’d not get trapped in there mid-mass. Unless you actually wanted to attend mass. Which I didn’t. But I did get trapped. For a whole three hours. OK, it was probably only 20 minutes…
During my detainment, I noticed something interesting. At the back of these churches, facing the altar, there’s often a separate section, partitioned off with a wooden lattice. When I turned round during the interminable sermon, I realised what these were for: they were viewing galleries for the nuns. There they stood, shoulder on shoulder in solemn silence, watching the men in their fancy dresses pull off their show in what was actually their (i.e. the convent’s) church.
We (I was accompanied by my delightful Aussie neighbours) made it to four or five venues (with stopping off for drinks in between) before we ran out of steam.
There was only one WOW!-moment for me, induced by this most spectacular ceiling:
Toledo has some very fancy doors (here’s a picture post, if you’re interested), and we passed by this one on our thirsty pilgrimage:
Over the millennia, Toledo has amassed a stockpile of tales and legends that would fill Hogwarts library twice over. It’s not all cute and pleasant bedtime lore, as you can imagine. And if all those sieges, driving out of Jews, murdering of Moors, not to mention the Spanish Inquisition, weren’t enough, there’s a whole compendium of ghost stories. The local Tourist Office is not above promoting Toledo’s dark side. On our walk, we came across this gem of a poster:
I’m a bit concerned now that I might have given you nightmares… here’s some remedial petunias for you:
Happy Easter 🙂
Great ceiling shot! Yes, bit of a bummer, that doorway….. Sounds like you had fun anyway 🙂
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LOL, another sad pun aficionado, welcome to my kingdom 😉 Yes, we did have fun.
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Silly me – I confess that when I started to read this, I was thinking about Toledo, Ohio and was totally impressed that this American city would have a history of convents and monasteries …. until I remembered who was writing the post. I blame the early hour of the morning and the coffee transfusion is not yet complete.
As usual, you have beautiful (actually pretty stunning) pictures combined with a side dish of humour … a perfect start to the day 🙂
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LOL, it is rather early for you 😉 Thanks for the kind words! Enjoy your weekend 🙂
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I was thinking Ohio too for the first few seconds… And the US does have some monasteries and convents. and not only Catholie ones. In CA near where I went to school there are Buddhist Monasteries! I was shocked to discover that!
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That IS very interesting! … although, in California anything is possible 🙂
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so true, it is a different world!
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And in Colorado… I visited an Ashram once up in the Sangre de Cristo mountains 🙂
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I heard something on the radio about a Buddhist retreat somewhere in the mountains in Spain… there’s nothing like a bit of variety 😉
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I had a professor at my Christian college who would say, “he who knows one (religion) knows none. After studying world religions, I am inclined to agree, but I am not a snob about it. Snobbery does not encourage learning. 😉
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I agree. Though I can be a bit of a snob about learning 😉
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Ha! I’ve heard of pub crawls, but never a church/pub crawl. Not a bad idea! That ceiling is truly a stunner. There is something Escher-like about it… have a great holiday!
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We might patent it 😉
Same to you!
BTW, how are the ‘girls’?
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They are making progress… very slowly. Winnie will come out of the tent now to be fed by the LSH. It helps when they are food-motivated. We may even try some prawns for her if I can get over my aversion to fish markets.
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Is it not just easier to buy a small bag of frozen prawns? No smell, and you can de-frost just two or three.
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Oh. Good idea! I haven’t dealt with seafood for more than 20 years, so I am a bit out of practice…
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I can tell… 😉
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Great post! I love the pictures the insights, well everything. I must visit Spain one day!
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Thanks 🙂
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Love this post. All this amazing art and architecture for an invisible, non-existent sky daddy!
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I can’t wait for Easter to be over… I know people here love their processions, but the nightly drumming at 2am is driving me insane!
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Cool photos! Thanks. Do you notice Muslim influence in the city still? or is that not very visible? Happy Easter to you, too 🙂
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Oh, lots of Muslim influence in Toledo, absolutely. Just look at this one:
Also, there are plenty of immigrants from Morocco and Algeria. Toledo has always been home to a colourful mix of people 🙂
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I loved speaking Arabic to the Moroccan immigrants in Spain. I used to get such funny reactions, plus I met some fascinating people.
Thanks for the link. I’ll check it out.
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I like the sound of Arabic… but I’m too daunted to tackle it. As a language to learn, I mean.
The link is just pics of Toledo’s oldest mosque, which, like the rest of them, was turned into a church. A beautiful building 🙂
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The ceilings are gorgeous, and your photography captured them beautifully.
Also, that’s a cool ass doorway. 🙂
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I knew you’d appreciate that shapely, firm butt 😉
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I do, indeed.
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Rather you than me. I went to a convent school for five years and wild horses wouldn’t drag me back. Oh, the tedium. They also have a particular smell, like burnt porridge – did you notice that?!
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All I could smell was incense… and I’ve hated that ever since childhood. I guess in the olden days, it was the only way to keep the stench of the unwashed masses at bay.
I grew up catholic in Catholic Bavaria, but I was spared the convent school experience, and nor did I have a ‘believing’ family. I was the only one of my friends who opted out of Confirmation.
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Segregation in religion always seems a little strange to me. It’s the Jewish way, too, isn’t it?
Spectacular ceiling though!!! Chocolate eggs abounding in Toledo? 🙂
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Religion IS segregation. Men, women, believers, non-believers – it’s the one thing all religions have in common.
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Ooh, cynical! But you may well have a point.
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You stole my heart with a Hogwarts reference 🙂
I do love that ceiling – must have missed that cathedral on my Toledo tour. One day I will finally import my Spain photos from a basement in Connecticut and then we can compare notes 🙂
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It’s a church, but I can’t remember which one, lol. And unless you were here over Easter, they’d not have let you in.
Aw, the pre-digital age… we’ll get those photos out, one day, and we’ll go through them together in our rocking chairs 🙂
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I’ll off myself before I get to the rocking chair age…
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I love rocking chairs. I’ll be in one when I’m 50, which isn’t long to go 🙂
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You maaaaaybe can lure me into one with promises of endless vodka martinis
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That door is really butt-iful 😉 I also like the horny devil 😉 Happy Easter!
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You’re the first one to even comment on the demon child 😉
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I like a good horn, me 😉
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Two horns. Am trying hard not to make a porn flick joke…
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Go for it 😉
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Best not… I’ve already offended all religious sentiments… need to maintain at least a shred of decorum. [pls do not make a knickers joke, as tempting as it may be!]
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You’re no fun 😉
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That’s what blogging does to you!
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It made me ‘famous’ 😉
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Notorious may be a more adequate word…
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Yeah, probably 😉
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Keep it up 🙂
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Is that what you said to the horny guy? 😉
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I only ever say that to the people who bring me plates of cake.
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Picky, picky 😉
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Great post! The door is really magnificent — no if, ands, or butts about it. 😉
I’m wondering though, what is the little door within the big door about?
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Well… the small door is for people to enter, the large one for horses/carts. You don’t want to push open the whole heavy contraption every time a single bod shuffling on foot comes to visit you, do you? Remember, these things are 500 years old and weigh ton.
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Ahh, that makes sense! I usually don’t have to worry about how I’m going to get my horse drawn cart inside. 🙂
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You just slap on some vaseline and shove them in the elevator, ta-ta!
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Amazing! I’m quite tickled you appreciate doors – too many people these days just walk right past them!
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Not Toledo doors… they make a lot of people stop, gawp and take pics 😉
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