You may think that, after trawling food industry websites for many years to earn my crust, by now I’d be desensitised to how these folks conduct their advertising, much like a seasoned undertaker, who has long since stopped flinching at the sight of the mangled corpses that pass through his premises. After all, it’s business-to-business communication replete with technical details aimed at food technologists rather than at the end consumer. However, since I’m also a consumer of food, I can’t completely switch off that part of my brain, and I thought it might be fun to share a few precious examples with you…
I bet you’ve always wanted one of these:
Oh, what could be more heavenly than the smell of freshly baked bread or the buttery doughiness of croissants still warm from the oven… And isn’t comforting to know that there’s somebody behind the scenes, who worries about all this stuff:
Ignorance is bliss, as they say. We definitely DON’T want to know the secret. EVER! Regarding the “friendly labelling”, there’s an explanatory rant coming up. Hold on to your seats. And your queasy stomachs.
But before we get to that, let me ask you this: what makes marshmallow so delectably fluffy and chewy at the same time? Sugar mixed with beaten egg whites in optimum proportions, right? Trouble is, them eggs is expensive – we desperately need something… erm… “innovative” to please our cost-conscious clientele. Ingredients supplier Wacko Wacker has just the ticket:
What the heck is a “Clean Label”, I hear you ponder…? Does it involve some hapless trainee scouring the ketchup splodges off the front of the bottle with a soft toothbrush before he puts it on the shelf…? Not quite. The “clean label trend”, as it’s known to industry insiders, is a topic that could probably fill the British Library twice over. I shall attempt to illustrate briefly.
The whole shenanigans started nearly two decades ago, when it slowly dawned on the industry that consumers didn’t find terms like “dioctyl sodium sulphosuccinate” and “butylated hydroxyanisole” on food packages all that appetising.
Essentially, the mission was (and still is!) to replace anything that sounds remotely like a “chemical” with something that Martha Stewart would keep in her pantry.
Sometimes, ingredient substitutions are required to produce a sparkling clean label, but a lot of the time, it’s simply a word game. I mean, why call something “hydrolysed starch” when “potato starch” will do nicely? Or is it “Monosodium glutamate” (MSG) that’s scaring the punters off your products in droves? No worries, just switch to “yeast extract”, which is virtually identical and does the same job.
“E-numbers”, in particular, are known for striking fear into European consumers’ hearts. They’ve been suspected of giving kids autism and poor ol’ granny pancreatic cancer, not to mention throttling the life out of strutting Frenchmen’s sperm… the list of their E-vil doings is endless. Thing is, most E-numbers are, in fact, harmless substances, and so manufactures have simply reverted to calling them by their first names, like vitamin C (instead of E300) and calcium (aka E170). Label space on food packages is at a premium and E-numbers provided a convenient short hand, but the mood has turned, and if, as a food manufacturer, you’re still bent on sticking to them, you may as well be slapping the radiation warning sign on your chocolate biscuit packets for all the good it’ll do your sales.
As for colourings and flavourings, a great big slew of them can just be referred to as “natural”, no need to give an E-number or a long-winded chemical name. The label will be clean, and everybody will be happy. Luckily, the average shopper doesn’t realise that you can make strawberry flavouring out of wood chips and still call it “natural” without breaking any laws. Nobody needs to know that the flavours don’t come from actual fruits.
You may be left with the impression that the food industry views you, the consumer, very much like this:
But at least they’ve a sense of humour about it…
Just when the memory of Monsanto had started to fade a bit… Thanks a lot! 🙂
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I knew you’d like this 😉
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Fascinating! It really is. As you say, a whole nuther universe.
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My mother fears E-ingredients more than the nuclear holocaust. That means I have to consume all the REALLY good smoked sausages in secret.
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It’s so ironic that E-numbers were originally devised only to be awarded to substances proven to be “safe” (at the time).
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Russians are just weird 🙂
And yes, I know, I still owe you that TEA post!
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Yes, tea!
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As a vegan, I am always reading labels but I am not afraid of chemicals, after all, we are all made of them, aren’t we?!I I recently saw a list of the chemicals that make up a humble apple, wish I could find it….
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You’ll love this!!
http://jameskennedymonash.wordpress.com/2013/12/12/ingredients-of-an-all-natural-banana/
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Ha, yes, like the one of the apple I saw 🙂
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Mooverllous, indeed!
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Did not want to read this, but I did anyway. Regretted it immediately. I don’t want to know *lalalalala*
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Best policy 😉
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I am horrified at what the food industry gets away with, especially in the US. Still, the majority of people don’t give a damn or are just plain uninformed or ignorant – how else to explain the measure that would have forced manufacturers to label their food GMO in, of all places, California??
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The US has very, very powerful lobby groups. Marion Nestle wrote some great books on this topic. She also has a blog. I love her 🙂
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I love her too. She often writes for the NY Times and I enjoy her immensely. I check out her blog from time to time.
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She has a real knack for conveying complex information in a way that’s not too difficult to follow. Also, she’s not a scaremonger – there are just so many nutsos writing inflammatory nonsense, sigh.
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And that’s why I make everything from scratch, using real foods (as opposed to “natural ingredients”). That banana thing is great. It reminds me of food manufacturers’ failed attempts to synthesise baby milk. If you don’t full understand what’s in it you can’t recreate it, and certainly can’t make it better. I can’t understand why you would want to try – nature’s bounty has sufficed for millennia! I didn’t know Marion Nestlé had a blog – now following.
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I knew you’d say just that 😉
Ah yes, milk formula… not sure if you read this already https://ladyofthecakes.wordpress.com/2013/06/04/what-is-wrong-with-infant-formula-in-china/
The point I made in the final para is particularly sad, I think.
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I’m going to stop eating.
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As long as there’s wine…
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Taken care of. And I never read the label 😉
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No point. You can see whether a bottle’s full or empty – what more do you need to know?!
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It’s hard sometimes with red – red wine, stupid green bottle. And boxes… White is easier all round 🙂
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You can always shake it… though that may be too much effort…
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Yeah, might be nap time – tired just thinking about that 😉
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Enjoy 🙂
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You have to read my new post first 😉
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Frenchmen?…phew. Some of those pictures in the post could be selling septic tanks/cesspits
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LOL, they could! Crusty ones 😉
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Local sourcing and produce that you can trust is way better than the junk that is in processed and flavored food…………the trouble is people are harassed enough in their daily lives to just go with the flow and take what they can fit in their budget
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Yes, cooking from scratch and sourcing locally takes a lot of preparation and planning. I’m not sure I could do it consistently… and some processed stuff, I really like 😉
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maybe setting up a local processing plant would be a good addition…..
health or junk and unknown chemicals
would you take the risk
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Aw, life is risky… 😉
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yes it is
and full of sacrifices…….
I gave up fast food, sugar rich sodas and sugar coz diabetes runs in the family……. better to prevent than suffer
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Yeah, I agree that prevention is better. I also have diabetes in the family and I do worry about my sugar intake.
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Until I can implant genetically modified perpetually insulin producing pancreatic cells in my pancreas (Scientists re working on it), I am holding up on the junk;
It is an effort (big one) but the one which I am willing to make for the sake of living longer and without doing a blood test every morning….
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Jawoll mach die Konzerne fertig, des taugt mir.
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Aber die buttern mir auch das Brot!
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The concept of a “clean label” is fascinating! (And this is coming from someone who reads labels all the time as my daughter has celiac disease).
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In the US, manufacturers are trying to get rid of HFCS, which poses quite a challenge. The corn industry over there is so heavily subsidised that it’s simply the cheapest sweetener around.
Gluten-free foods are booming over there, as you may have noticed. Great for people like your daughter 🙂
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Yes! It’s so easy when we visit in the summer. Lots of choice!
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Amazing how looking at the ad for the bread device killed my desire to eat bread instantly. Guess I’ll have to make my own, so I know it hasn’t been probed by aliens!
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Many bakeries still employ the old-fashioned ways, fear not 😉
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Wish I hadn’t just eaten half a packet of Oreos…really don’t want to look at the label 😦
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You can eat a carrot later to cancel it out 😉
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first slosh of morning pee … way to ruin that one.
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I didn’t realise you were enjoying it before…!
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I think I just lost my appetite. Yuck.
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Cake. That’ll bring it back 😉
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Cake solves everything!
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Excellent article – I know I’m a little late to the party, but I just had to comment. The term “natural” is a big one here in the States, and has absolutely no meaning whatsoever!
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It’s never too late 😉 The FDA is dragging its heels… I don’t think we’ll see a legal definition within the next half decade! The EU hasn’t got one yet either.
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